Website address

Monday, 30 March 2015

Refashion Tips: Starting at fold when taking in



Recently we unveiled Castaway to Couture an an exciting, national refashioning competition, open to the public, ASG members & Red Cross people too! Castaway to Couture is brought to you by the Australian Sewing Guild Inc. in collaboration with Red Cross Shops. Entries are open and we have our resident refashioning genie, Judith Turner here, with the fifth in a series of tips. Take it away Judith.........
 


The quick fix “TAKE IN” is what a lot of people want. And fair enough. Usually it’s because of a planned outing and the garment is not sitting right, so why not just give it a quick run in down the sides?

This is not something I would do for a client, unless they were adamant it was alright to start at the top. I prefer to unpick bindings, take in, and then take in sides and put it all back together with a nice join in the binding.

Notice in photo 1 that the sewing foot is on a lean. This means that the probability of the top lining up is limited.

However if a quick fix is what you are chasing, here is a tip to help you line up the top so that
it does not move and one side is higher than the other.

In your box of tricks you may have a gadget that looks like my Jean Genie. It is usually plastic and white. Photo 2

Lower the needle into the top and slide the gadget in so it is touching the end of the fabric.

Lower the needle and sew. Easy as 1 2 3!

Happy altering
Judith aka genie

Keep an eye on this blog for more hints, tips and ideas! We want to keep you buzzing with ideas, so not only will you hear from Judith, we will have some inspirational blogs to check out. This week, we suggest checking out Refashionista, So, Zo and The Pineneedle Collective. Have a great week, we can't wait to see your entries!

Tuesday, 24 March 2015

Refashion Tips: Lining up seams


Recently we unveiled Castaway to Couture an an exciting, national refashioning competition, open to the public, ASG members & Red Cross people too! Castaway to Couture is brought to you by the Australian Sewing Guild Inc. in collaboration with Red Cross Shops. Entries are open and we have our resident refashioning genie, Judith Turner here, with the fourth in a series of tips. Take it away Judith.........

In your quest to remodel a Red Cross garment, you may come across the need to add an extension which will mean lining up seams.  This can be tricky particularly if the fabric is a stretch or bulky fabric. I have clients who need to have extensions added to most dresses because of their height. 

Do not add the extension without unpicking the side seams and center back seam.  If an extension is added without the side or back seams unpicked first, it will be almost impossible to make it look like it was always like that.

Unpick the side and back seam and another other seams coming vertical down the garment.  Add the extension, then stitch the vertical seams closed.

Even if the fabric is not thick, there will be a degree of bulk, and that could mean that the horizontal seam may "move" and when turned to the right side the seams are out of alignment.

I have created a short video showing the technique I use to eliminate this problem. The video shows how to line up the seams using only a pin, and how to ensure that they are always even.  I have used my Jean Genie which is an invention of mine.  For more information on the Jean Genie send me an email – judith at geniecentre.com

You may have a plastic alternative in your sewing notions stash.  As long at the foot is raised it should work.



Happy altering

Judith aka genie

Keep an eye on this blog for more hints, tips and ideas! We want to keep you buzzing with ideas, so not only will you hear from Judith, we will have some inspirational blogs to check out. This week, we suggest checking out Refashionista, So, Zo and The Pineneedle Collective. Have a great week, we can't wait to see your entries!

Wednesday, 18 March 2015

Refashion Tips: Create dart in lined garment


Recently we unveiled Castaway to Couture an an exciting, national refashioning competition, open to the public, ASG members & Red Cross people too! Castaway to Couture is brought to you by the Australian Sewing Guild Inc. in collaboration with Red Cross Shops. Entries are open and we have our resident refashioning genie, Judith Turner here, with the third of a series of tips. Take it away Judith.........

It would be amazing if you find a garment that fits your body shape, particularly in the upper body area around the bust. Garments will either have sleeves or will be sleeveless. Imagine a sleeveless dress that fits beautifully at the waist and hips, but the front of the armhole is gaping. I know that you are going to remodel and reshape but you still want the bust area to fit you perfectly. The natural step, if it is too big in the armhole, is to insert a dart. Is there a quick and easy way to do this? What if the garment is lined? Another issue could be that the fabric is sheer. Creating darts in a garment that is lined and sheer can be a challenge. And how are you going to line up the dart on the sheer fabric with the dart on the lining. This is almost impossible to do. But I have a solution for you.

First pin the dart whilst it is on your body. For this process it is better to have the garment on the right way with right side on the outside (not inside out). Place the first pin at the armhole but facing in towards your body. This will eliminate the pin harming you. Move to within 2.5 cm (1 in) from your nipple and place a pin on the very edge of the fabric. One section of the pin (nipple end) will be at the edge of the fold and the end facing towards the armhole will have more fabric taken up to create the dart. Place the third pin between the first and third pin.

Take the garment off and measure the dart.

Start at the armhole end and measure from the pin to the fold. Write this amount down. Next, measure the second pin. The last pin is your dart length. Most darts have a length from 7.5 – 12.5 cm (3 – 5 in). Write the length of the dart down.

Before taking the pins out, place a pin through the center of the dart which is the folded section. Initially only have the pin through the outer layer. Take out the pins forming the dart. You will only have the pins through the center now.

The next step is to pin the lining to the outer so that it is in exactly the same position. An ironing board is the best option, and a tailors arm will make it even easier to do. Once you are happy that the lining and the outer are matched, move the pins so that they are through both layers.

Start at the armhole edge and stitch both layers together.

Place a dot from the stitch line for the new dart width at the armhole. Fold the fabric with the stitching in the center and sew the dart. Hand stitch the dart on the other side to the lining.

Happy remodeling and recycling

Judith aka genie

Keep an eye on this blog for more hints, tips and ideas! We want to keep you buzzing with ideas, so not only will you hear from Judith, we will have some inspirational blogs to check out. This week, we suggest checking out Refashionista, So, Zo and The Pineneedle Collective. Have a great week, we can't wait to see your entries!

Wednesday, 11 March 2015

Refashion Tips: Blocking



Recently we unveiled Castaway to Couture an an exciting, national refashioning competition, open to the public, ASG members & Red Cross people too! Castaway to Couture is brought to you by the Australian Sewing Guild Inc. in collaboration with Red Cross Shops. Entries are open and we have our resident refashioning genie, Judith Turner here, with the second of a series of tips. Take it away Judith.........
 
Blocking is a method for increasing the size of a garment. For example let’s say you are a size 12 and when browsing through the Red Cross store you saw a dress in a size 8 that you loved. It was the style and the fabric that caught your eye. As you stand there gazing at the garment, you think “I could lose weight!” Or “It’s a stretch fabric, so maybe it will stretch a little when on!” Or “Maybe the label is wrong!”

However what you need is to use the blocking technique. It’s fairly straight forward. First you will need to find some fabric that will work as a contrast. Measure the bust, waist and hip area of the garment, and of course your measurements. Work out the difference. The simplest method is to unpick the side seams and insert a panel either side. However what I prefer to do is reshape the front and back. The following photo is an example. I have cut away part of the shoulder, come down over the bust through the nipple area, then straight down to the hem. Lay this piece onto your contrast fabric and add the additional difference between the garment and your measurements. Now add seam allowance for the new panel, PLUS seam allowance for the existing garment at the front panel. Repeat for the back of the panel. Repeat for the other side. One of the biggest mistakes is not allowing seam allowance for the existing garment.

So now you can look at that garment 2 sizes too small and think – I could make that my size if I just..........................

Happy altering,

Judith aka genie

Keep an eye on this blog for more hints, tips and ideas! We want to keep you buzzing with ideas, so not only will you hear from Judith, we will have some inspirational blogs to check out. This week, we suggest checking out Recycled Fashion (Hi Erica!), Sew it Again and I love to Op Shop. Have a great week, we can't wait to see your entries!

Friday, 6 March 2015

FREE Pattern Friday! Casual Pants in a Fabulous Print



Have you been saving a special print fabric for 'something'?' Here's a great example of how a fabulous print can take a gorgeous casual pant style from very nice to WOW!


Today's FREE Pattern comes from the On the Cutting Floor Blog, a favourite free pattern resource! Note: you will have to create a free account on Craftsy.com  to access the pattern and instructions.


The wide waist band is elasticised, but not obviously! Love it when comfort and style collide! And, going by the latest fashions, wider leg pants are making a comeback after the last few years of skinny leg styles.


This pattern has a great size range, from 4 to 22. Here's the measurement chart to help with size selection.

The PDF pattern is colour coded - a big help with tracing or cutting out, if you can print in colour.


 A pair or three of these in glorious prints....imagine! And then get sewing!

As always, we're keen to see your versions of things made with our FREE Pattern Friday suggestions. You can email pics to us at marketing at aussew.org.au.  Or, if you're on Instagram, include the hashtag:  #asgmember.

Monday, 2 March 2015

Refashion Tips: Buying Pre-Loved Clothes




Last week we  unveiled Castaway to Couture an an exciting, national refashioning competition, open to the public, ASG members & Red Cross people too! Castaway to Couture is brought to you by the Australian Sewing Guild Inc. in collaboration with Red Cross Shops. Entries open today, so we have our resident refashioning genie, Judith Turner here, with the first of a series of tips. Take it away Judith.........

Buying pre-loved clothes is a great way to find your overall “look”. We all have garments that we feel best suits our unique style. If you are still working that out, then visiting a Red Cross Shop in your area and purchasing pre-loved clothes is a great way to start. It is not going to cost you an arm and a leg and secondly you are supporting a very worthwhile organisation.

It’s fun to wander through the racks and racks of clothes. Instead of buying one brand new garment at a retail outlet, you could have 10 – 20 garments to play with.

And if you are not sure about the colour choices, take a few garments to the mirror and hold them up against your body. Start with the colour you love the most and that you always find yourself wearing. This will be the colour that you constantly zero in on when walking up and down the racks. Let’s say that black is your favorite.

Hold a black garment up so that all you see is your neck and face. Notice what this does to your complexion. Now take another garment in a different colour and hold it up the same as you did with the first. Can you see a difference in the way your complexion reacts to the colour? Some colours will make you looked washed out or even older than you really are.

Sometimes, you'll be drawn to something and find it doesn't fit or it's not cut in your style. They are the perfect finds to refashion.So make sure you grab them up!

Most stores will have a fitting room, but if you want to just grab and go, then even if it does not fit, you can cut it up, resize and remodel just for the fun of it. We’ll cover different techniques you can use to remodel and reshape each week.

Have fun and check out their website at www.redcross.org.au. Did you know that Guy Sebastian and his beautiful wife Jules are two of many Ambassadors for Red Cross? How cool!

Happy Red Cross buying and altering

Judith Turner (aka genie) www.geniecentre.com

Keep an eye on this blog for more hints, tips and ideas! We want to keep you buzzing with ideas, so not only will you hear from Judith, we will have some inspirational blogs to check out. This week, we suggest checking out Recycled Fashion (Hi Erica!), Sew it Again and I love to Op Shop. Have a great week, we can't wait to see your entries!